The tune, Hopping John, celebrates a traditional New Year's Day meal that brings good luck during the coming year.
Hopping John is thought to have originated with African slaves on southern plantations in the eighteenth century. It consists of cowpeas (black-eyed peas) cooked with salt pork and served with rice. Formal recipes began appearing in southern cookbooks as early as 1830. It was a common food in the Confederate Army during the Civil War.
The origin of the name, Hopping John is obscure. One story claims it is named for a crippled waiter at a Charleston hotel; another attributes the name to the action of peas hopping in a pot of boiling water. Most likely it derives from the custom that children must hop around the table before the dish is served.
The recipe at right is probably close to what would have been served prior to the Civil War. If you cannot find salt pork in your grocery store, use slab bacon.
This is simple to make and surprisingly good although a bit bland. Modern recipes add onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers and use ham or sausage rather than salt pork.
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Hopping John
(circa 1830)
1/2 pound salt pork
1 pound dried cowpeas
2 quarts water
1 teaspoon salt
(optional)
1 cup rice
Step 1. Soak the cowpeas (black-eyed peas) overnight in cold water.
Step 2. Bring to a boil and then simmer the salt pork in 2 quarts of water for 45 minutes.
Step 3. Add the cowpeas (black-eyed peas) and salt, and continue cooking for 30 minutes or until peas are almost tender.
Step 4. Add the rice and boil for 15 to 20 minutes longer.
Step 5. Drain thoroughly. Top with sliced salt pork.
